We be Limin'

Our plan of the day was simple – go to beach and participate in a Virgin Island custom called limin’. This practice call for individuals to do absolutely nothing, but to hangout. Another beautiful morning greeted us and we began our day moving very slow.

We decided to go to Honeymoon Beach for the day. There is no longer parking at the Caneel lot so now the way to get there is the Lind Trail. We opted to park up on the hill and use the upper trail. Upon our arrival the parking lot was empty and a donkey was there to insure all rules were followed.

The trail is in really good shape and the walk down is only about ½ mile, but it is vertical.

I quickly realized going up was not going to be as much fun. Little spots of blue could be seen through the foliage as we made our way down the hill.

Once again, we found a beach that has changed much since the storm. All the shade offered by the line of trees and seagrapes along the shore are mostly gone.

The little beach rental place and snack hut are up and running, which made our limin’ day that much easier. We do not have to hike out to get lunch.

However, the beach itself is still beautiful, and shade can be found it is just not as plentiful. Rain storms kept coming by, but none ever found Honeymoon Beach.

We floated and chated, read our books, and just hung out.

As the morning went on the wind picked up, but it would not stop us from snorkeling. Out to the point we went and I was paying attention if the camera was off or on this time.

The reef in front of the National Park Director’s house has really taken a beating. It is almost like everything was sandblasted. Marine life is there but appears to be greatly reduced from our last visit.

With the wind, the current was very strong so we did not snorkel long.

Our bellies were grumbling so we headed over to the snack shack, where we purchased the last 3 hot dogs, two beers for $31. I know that sounds like a lot, but the dogs did come with chips. While waiting for our lunch, a couple democrats stopped by to chat politics.

They definitely favored handouts but were both very nice and I enjoyed my chat. Until my lunch arrived and then they wanted it all. I had to shoo them away so I could eat.

We played in the water some more and Janet swam, but the time had come to climb the hill. Janet scurried up while I had to take a few pauses looking for a little more oxygen. Time to get back on walking circuit when we get home.

Leaving Honeymoon, we headed to Jumbie. Knowing the winds would be strong we still wanted to go to another beach. Walking down a pristine trail… (off ramp – We cannot say enough to the NPS, locals, and volunteers who are bringing this island back to life) in front of us was a beautiful woman in a black bathing suit with Caribbean golden skin and long black hair. I froze to take in the beauty and the contrast of this woman in black (very little black) against the turquoise sea. I turned to Janet and said I want to take that picture. As we stepped off the trail a gaggle of people were there, tripods, light diffusers, and photographer with a camera that was better looking than model. Needless to say, I did not get the shot.  The beach was beautiful.

All sorts of sea life had washed up and dried on the beach.

The wind was a little much so we only stayed a short while before heading into town. We picked up a few things and listened to a children’s steel drum band welcoming the next load of travelers off the ferry. Paul of Island Cork is back on island and we snagged a Sauvignon Blanc, which paired well with our dinner that we prepared at Sweet St John.

And as it has been happening all week, sleep came fast and early.

Where is everybody?

We awoke this morning to the sounds of birds and a view of a rainbow out our window.

Sipping coffee, a watchful bird was on alert for any food that may fall, but there was none.

The weather looked a little iffy for a day on the beach. The clouds did not deter us – Trunk Bay in the morning and Jumbie in the afternoon was the plan. Arriving at the Trunk parking two donkeys looked at us in disbelief. It was almost as if they were saying, you found a parking spot right next to the ranger station.

The park is still not charging to enter, but the water is back on and the facilities operational. As rain drops fell we headed to a pavilion, albeit the roof was missing a few panels.

The rain stopped and we walked out on the beach. To our amazement, we were the only people on the beach.

Tom there is nobody here!

If you have been to St John you know that is NEVER the case. Trunk is a very popular beach which the cruise ships bring beach excursions by boat and taxi. We settled in to enjoy this special moment.

After enjoying the view of the turquoise waters, the sea was calling Janet. It was time for a swim! She walked down to the island and put on her goggles and began her swim from one end of Trunk to the other end, and repeat.

I assumed my towel boy/lifeguard role. People were starting to arrive on "our" beach while Janet was swimming, but it was just a handful.

After a short rest it was time for a snorkel. The clouds were getting thicker so I knew the visibility would not be great. Camera strapped on we enter the water only to be greeted by a small barracuda.

It was nice to see a few sea fans, but it was obvious the reef was hurting. I took some amazing photos, but it was later on when I realized that the on/off button must be on to take the pictures. Oh well here are a couple.

After drying off, the winds began to really below. Our drying swim gear look liked a storm warning flag, and we took the advice and packed up and headed to town for lunch.

Cruz Bay Landing provided a great lunch and refreshments, but the clouds kept coming. Walking down to Mongoose Junction we decided an afternoon beach day was out. We were glad to see Morgan's Mango had made another come back, and Lauren was playing Sunday night at Sun Dog!  All signs of good things happening on island.

After a little window shopping we were off on another adventure.

We drove up to Gifft Hill and headed to Hummingbird Hill, a villa where we stayed on our last vacation on island.

The villa is just a shell. The beautiful orchids are gone.

This villa holds some very special family memories and honestly it was emotionally tough. Only the master suite was whole.

We left under the observation of a goat to our next destination.

The other villa that held special place in our hearts was Villa Maria on Great Cruz Bay. We passed  by the Westin and work was ongoing.

The damage it had sustained by Villa Maria was devasting. The front door was gone as well as the house.

The pool area was in tack, but the deck was soft and did not provide a feeling of safety.

Once again, the master suite was the only remaining structure on the complex. This was just too much to take and it was time to head back to Sweet Saint John.

We headed downtown for refreshments and dinner. The Quiet Mon is always my favorite place to enjoy a dark and tonic and take in the happenings of Cruz Bay.

Yeah it is a new sign....Like the old one better - Times are a changin'

Following cocktails, it was short walk down the steps from Quiet Mon to La Tapa for dinner. A wonderful meal of Josephine’s greens with fried goat cheese, Pallela for two accompanied by a wonderful Tempranillo followed by a blood orange cheesecake were our choices for the evening.

The nights here have been coming quick and bedtime seems to get earlier each evening. Good Night

Beauty and the Beast

Arising before the sun I was excited to get this day started. Today was turtle day and our favorite beach, Maho. The return has occurred, but today we will start on the relax and recharge.

After making what I would call a Sunday breakfast (love this kitchen) we headed to Maho. A quick stop in town for water at Dolphin Market we heard something that went straight to our hearts. During check out, I gave the attendant a $20. She replied, do you have the 35 cents in change? No, I said I have no cents, just dollars. Smiling, she said thank you for bringing your dollars. The merchants on island are reopening and well stocked, they are just missing the usual amounts of customers this time of year.

Driving up the North Shore road to Maho we could hardly wait to round that final bend and stop at the overlook. And there it was! Francis Bay, on the far left, Little Maho, and then Maho.

A couple boats had overnighted in the bay, and the contrast of the blue water and white hulls screamed, take a picture of me.

Parking at Maho had always been iffy. We used to just pull off the road into the ground cover of seagrape and mangrove trees, but they are now all twisted and ripped from the ground.

Not long ago they built a parking lot, but it was full of holes that would eat most small cars. Being early we were the first in the new lot. When we left, the lot was full. I think everyone on island had found Maho.

Janet went straight to work cleaning the beaches… The pile of donkey droppings next to our intended beach area was just not desirable.

The morning was beautiful and we immediately put on our snorkel stuff and headed out.

We could hear children excitedly announcing, look, another turtle. When we got to the grass field offshore they could easily be spotted. The beautiful sea creatures went about eating the grasses undisturbed by the one horn butt fish (snorkelers) who gawked from above.

We also snorkeled out and around to Little Maho. The one thing that is noticeably missing is the large sea fans that use to be out on the point. In fact, we only saw one fan. The noon had come and gone. The beach was filling up, and when a gaggle of young ladies waded into the water and exclaimed that if you stand still the fish move… it was time to go.

It was a great morning on the beach and the turtle adventure was all that we hoped for. There is very little shade on Maho, but Beerman, if you are following the blog, you would like some of the growth on the surviving trees.

Driving over the mountain to Coral Bay we were afforded a beautiful view however, the true devastation could be seen. Brown mountains and many damaged houses is overwhelming.

The power company from Missouri is still very busy on this side of the island. Boats still litter the bay and signs of the level of clean up still ongoing.

We stopped at the recently opened Aqua Bistro for lunch. The food was great and the drinks cold. Our friends Richard and Sally had lived above the restaurant for a year and by all appearances their rental survived in good shape.

After a wonderful lunch we headed back over to Hawknest Beach so Janet get a swim in before we called it a night.

Firing up the grill we cooked outside the entire dinner of tenderloins, potatoes, and green beans with a wonderful Benzinger Merlot, which was exactly double the price we get it at home. Oh well, it paired well with the meal.

Yes, today we saw the beauty of the turtles and the beast name Irma. Three wonderful meals, chatted with some great people and had some great Tom and Janet time. It appears the relax and recharge phase is working.