The Longest Day...

The alarm sounded off with a Richie Havens cover of the classic “Here Comes the Sun”. However, there was no sun… It was 2:20 am! The drive to Washington was uneventful and pretty easy that time of the morning. Once again, we were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to First Class on the DCA to MIA leg. We have had a pretty good run on getting upgraded on vacations. SWEET! Both flights were on time, great crews, and arrived earlier than scheduled. The early arrival in St Thomas allowed us to take a shot at catching 2 o’clock ferry from Red Hook to St John. The ride from the airport to the ferry was like no other we have experienced. We arrived with time to spare!

On the ride across St Thomas the damage from Irma is still visible. Nature took a beating from the high winds the storm packed, but the number of blue tarp roofs six months after the storm totally surprised us. Arriving at the ferry dock the second major discovery occurred. We both were immediately taken with the water color. The clarity and color was totally awesome! The blues and greens are vibrant and the clarity like we never seen on past trips. Looking across to an old favorite hangout, Latitude 18, pretty much told the story. It is still standing, but a little battered and bruised.

Leaving Red Hook there was no doubt the boat fairy had come to the Virgin Islands. There were lots of shiny white boats anchored about.

As we reached Cabrita Point our son’s old apartment was visible. They too looked a little worst for wear, but no longer pink.

The journey over to St John is a short one, and we had a bird guide us into harbor. It was good to be back!

The change and damage are immediately recognized from the ferry dock as you look over to Wharfside Village. Some of the classic places such as the Beach Bar and Joe’s Rum Hut are boarded up, while others like High Tide had a good crowd.

I have to throw this out to Scott and Rita – The Sadie Sea is alive and well if you get tired of selling wine.

After a quick turn around picking up a shiny red jeep at Conrad Sutton’s we followed Marcus, the cottage owner to “Sweet Saint John”.

Our home base for the week is beautiful with great views of St Thomas and Frank Bay. Of course, as always in the islands, there is the one telephone pole that will obstruct all the pictures.

Marcus gave us a great in-brief on where everything is located and how to work the many features of the recently renovated cottage. It is a cute Caribbean Cottage from the outside and when you walk in you enter South Beach Miami. Extremely clean lines, gourmet kitchen, modern appliances, cabinets you would find on Star Trek, and every convenience known to man!

As my father use to say… “these are definitely adequate quarters”! We look forward to our stay.

Getting out of travel clothes, it was time to go exploring. We headed out through town and up the north shore road. We stopped at the first overlook looking back at Cruz Bay and for the most part it looks the same.

The next stop overlooking Caneel Bay was another story. This once Rockefeller Resort was in tough shape. Most of the building clearly damaged and the manicured estate was in shambles. No sign of work, but there was a lone person walking the beach.

Hawknest was our next stop. Much of the shade is gone, but the small pavilions and picnic tables are there and the beach was beautiful. There were things that were hidden like the sugar mill on Peace Hill and the Gibney house which was always hidden in the woods, now can be clearly seen.

Over the hill to our last stop, Trunk Bay. The iconic overlook that has made so many travel magazine layouts over the years is still beautiful. The lush green has been replaced with brown with spotted green, but the sand is white and the water blue.

Our stomachs by this time were growling so we headed back to town. We stopped by Coconut Coast, a favorite art store on the island and Island Cork to see their new location.

Walking around town there was life, but it was very quiet. I do not think we have ever seen Woody’s so quiet at their famous happy hour.

But food and refreshment were needed now! Conch fritter appetizers and a dark and tonic cured that pain and simple dinner followed. Sitting at High Tides on the beach we chatted of the changes we have seen and how beautiful the island still remains. Everyone has been very friendly and by all appearances the amount of tourist on island, like ourselves, is minimal.

Back to our Sweet Saint John for the night. Our 2:20 am alarm was weighing heavy on our eyelids. We called it a night because early tomorrow the adventure truly begins as we head to Maho to snorkel with the turtles!